Winged Beauties in Spain and Rome

In late May we took what was likely our last guided birding trip ever, in the form of a three-day outing around the Valencia and Alicante regions of Spain. Why “last”? Well, my life list now stands at 5,044 species, and while I welcome the idea of adding more to it, it is hardly a priority anymore. Bumping up that number significantly would require the kind of travel that we are becoming less interested in, namely, long hauls to third-world countries. We have done our share of that and the exhaustion it precipitates as we age is getting to be a bit much. Moreover, my main goal in “competitive” birding was to show that a legally blind person could get far more species than most birders—especially those with normal vision—given enough effort. I think that is a mission accomplished: if I go by eBird, I’m currently above the 99.97% percentile of all birders who use the platform.

I only took one bird photo during the trip, and that was this lovely Marbled Duck, a near-threatened species of teal. It was easy to find in the few wetland areas of the otherwise bone-dry Alicante region.

Marbled Duck, Marmaronetta angustirostris, near Alicante, Spain

My larger birding goal in Spain was actually oriented towards crossing a different threshold: getting my 1,000th species recorded on audio. I was at 992 before leaving home, but can happily report that my list on xeno-canto.org stands at 1,008. I’m kicking myself for not recording more birds when we lived in Thailand and traveled through the Eastern Hemisphere during all of 2018; my number might likely then be in the 2,000 range. Ah well, I don’t think we will be going back just to record birdsongs there.

I didn’t intend to attempt any serious photography, as I didn’t bring my bulky Nikon P1000 along, but I did manage to get a photo of my first European dragonfly with a positive ID, a male Black-tailed Skimmer. This was taken using using my crap Lumix travel camera. There looked to be other odes zooming around this wetland near Alicante, but with the focus being purely on birds (and our guide being an avian expert) there was no opportunity to chase them.

Black-tailed Skimmer Orthetrum cancellatum

Spain had long been touted to us as the prime birding destination in Europe, so it was always on our short list of destinations. We picked up specialties such as Great Bustard, Imperial Spanish Eagle, Bonelli’s Eagle, Spotless Starling, and White-faced Duck. But the other reason for this trip was for my wife and I to appreciate a different kind of beauty: the glorious art and architecture endemic to our Catholic faith. So in addition to birding we visited over two dozen cathedrals, basilicas, churches, and other sacred places, first in Spain, and then in Rome. What follow are random images in no particular order. If you are here only for the nature, the rest of this post won’t mean much to you.

Very few of my photographs come from famous sites. During on first morning in Rome, we went to the Vatican, and I was taken aback (I don’t know why) by the behavior of most people in St. Peter’s Basilica. The majority of them were walking around with their phones held high, effectively viewing this incredible place through their phone screens, all to take photos and videos that they’ll likely rarely look at again, I’m guessing. Or to post them on social media for people to flip through and pay 20 milliseconds of attention to. I resolved to take no photos in the Vatican after seeing that. Everything there has already been photographed a million times. Why do I need to do it too? I can find images of anything in there by looking online.

So hence, no Vatican pictures. I was too busy looking at it. We were also prompted, after this, to spend more time in the non-touristy churches and cathedrals that dot the city (and which are found all over Spain, too). In such locales I did take a few photos. The amazing part is that there is just as much ornate beauty here as in the Vatican, but very few people bother visiting these sites.

A different kind of winged beauty, under the organ pipes at the Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome. I suppose this is a semi-famous church, as it houses several famous Caravaggio paintings (see below).
Caravaggio’s depiction of St. Paul’s conversion on the road to Damascus, one of my favorite paintings ever. It reminds me of how I felt when it came to me: knocked on my ass and overwhelmed.
Just south of the castle named for St. Angelo, there is a bridge over the Tiber River that was built in the year 134 AD by the Roman emperor Hadrian. Lining either side are a series of angel statues, each bearing an item from the Passion. Here we have, along with Yellow-legged Gull atop it, another winged beauty, bearing the cross.
This angel on the same bridge carries the crown of thorns. There are a total of ten statues, each with a different item.
Gorgeous stained glass at Parrocchia San Gioacchino in Prati. This was an amazing church about 15 minutes walk from Vatican City, and only a few people were there.
Dome interior for the same place, the Parrocchia San Gioacchino in Prati.
Lovely mosaic work with winged beauties at the Basilica of Saint Praxedes, which dates back to 780 AD. After visiting some six churches in Spain, and then the Vatican and a number of other sites during our first two days in Rome, we finally encountered here something we’d been looking for with no luck: real votive candles. To our horror, the aforementioned places all had electric ‘candles’ instead, which I find ridiculous. See below.
Fake candles in a Spanish cathedral. I did not even know such a monstrous thing existed. I’m not sure who had the terrible idea that an LED bulb is a legitimate replacement for a real fire, but this is an idea that needs to go away. Drop a coin in the slot and voila! a random ‘candle’ will light up. Why not just put a screen there with an image a burning candle? No less fake. Nothing can replace the beauty of candlelight. This is crazy. And this has replaced the real votive candles in St. Peter’s Basilica, too.
Now that’s more like it. Real candles, with Claire lighting one for her father, who passed away in March. She is even color-coordinated for this lovely Marian shrine, located in the Church of San Rocco all’Augusteo in Rome, another empty place we stumbled across.
St. Agnes, at one of her two churches in Rome. This is from a place simply called Saint Agnes Outside the Walls, because it lies just beyond the Aurelian walls that once circled the city. Remains of them can be seen nearby. We attended Pentecost Sunday Mass here, and this was an important site for us to visit, as our home parish is also named for St. Agnes, located in St. Paul, Minnesota.
This crypt below the altar holds St. Agnes’ body. But not all of it. Her skull is on display at her other church in Rome (!), and we meant to visit on a Monday, our last day, unaware that that church was closed that day.
This poor photo is of a painting high up in the church, depicting the martrydom of St. Agnes, in front of the Roman Forum, in 304 AD. I wish I had a better image of this stunning artwork, which shows her kneeling to pray near the executioner.
Next to Saint Agnes Outside the Walls stands the Mausoleum of Constantina, built around 350 AD by Constantine for his daughter.
We found this gorgeous painting inside San Girolamo dei Croati, in Rome. I hope to find a print of this at some point, as the color and detail are sublime and winged beauties dot the sky. Even back when I was not a Catholic, I was in love with their art. It means even more now.


2 thoughts on “Winged Beauties in Spain and Rome

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